Among all the other Japanese exports and authentic Japanese food delights in Markham’s J-Town, there lies Tanuki Restaurant that was opened right at the peak of the pandemic in 2020 by chefs and co-owners Chris Samaroo and John-Francis Dugas.
Tanuki, named after the Japanese raccoon dog, offers a changing weekend brunch menu as well as a regular selection of comforting dishes. The restaurant puts a spin on Japanese flavors with fresh ingredients in creative ways, and features items with unique names like “Bathing Phoenix Karaage” and “Blessing of the Old Ones Hambagu.”
They talked about their journey from education to execution of their restaurant and also their unique culinary journey into East–West fusion and opening a new restaurant during a pandemic.
How did your individual culinary journeys begin?
After high school, I went to George Brown and then spent a few years working at various hotels and restaurants around the city. I got a chance to do a government-sponsored apprenticeship, where I spent six months at restaurants learning specific skills, like seafood, Asian cuisine, hotel and banquet cooking.
After six months, I joined the InterContinental on Bloor Street starting as a second cook first and then climbed my way up to chef de partie and that’s when we both met. We built a strong working relationship and I really enjoyed working with him for many more years before we got together and opened this restaurant.
Where did the inspiration for Tanuki Restaurant come from?
We have been to Japan many times and absolutely loved the food, that’s why the Japanese cuisine. We have a lot of Japanese friends and we all enjoy the flavours, the cooking style, so it was a very natural decision for us and a mesh of our skills and our palettes.
Why did you pick Japanese cuisine and J-Town to be your location?
Chris: John and I were both raised in Markham that has a strong Asian community. We used to hang out in downtown, but on our day offs, all we wanted to eat was around J-Town. One of our old friends Cole that we’ve known for a long time owns a Japanese bakery in J-Town. He found out that we were looking for a location where we could open a restaurant, and he was interested in us because he’s known us for a long time.
What was it like opening a restaurant during the peak of COVID?
When we decided to open a restaurant, we thought it would be a small, slow takeout place with John and I and maybe one other staff member.
But when customers started fl ocking in, it turned into a busy restaurant overnight. Fast forward, we have a team of 12 staff memebrs. But when the restrictions increased, everything went away instantly. When things got better, then the second lockdown happened and it became a whole cycle of starting over again and again. We’ve changed our menus on a monthly basis, trying to adapt with what the customers want.
How do you find ideas for brunch menus and the creative dish names?
Honestly, we just get together, have a few drinks and toss ideas around. We pay attention to the trends and blend it together with the Japanese cuisine as it offers so many different flavours and techniques, so combining that with what’s popular right now is a lot of fun for us. We visit the markets every week to see what’s fresh and in season, and then brainstorm the recipes we could create. And that’s how we come up with unique dishes. Also, social media is a big influence with everything being so visual. Even home cooks are getting creative, so why can’t we, and it is pretty inspiring.
What are your general philosophies about food?
It is pretty straightforward in a good way. We source the best, fresh ingredients, but also keep things affordable so our price points remain within our audience’s reach. Instead of going for the most expensive meat or rare vegetables, we look for food that’s in season, high quality, and the most cost-effective. Just a nice quality meal, plated simply, made with fresh ingredients.
What advice would you give to aspiring chefs or restaurateurs?
John: Keep learning. Be open to experimenting and trying things that push your boundaries, but also be prepared to work hard. The kitchen is not for the faint of heart—it’s long hours, intense pressure, and a lot of teamwork.
Chris: Listening to what your customers want and being willing to adapt is just as important as having great food. Also, build strong relationships with your team, suppliers, and community. Those connections will carry you through the most challenging days.
Hermione Ruan | Contributing Writer
